Logo

Welcome to The Crabstreet Journal

Login or Signup to meet new friends, find out what's going on, and connect with others on the site.


Sign Up Now

Registering for this site is easy. Just fill in the fields on the registration page and we'll get a new account set up for you in no time.

Forgot Your Password?

A new password will be e-mailed to you.

Member Login

You are browsing the archive for heat.

Profile photo of Stacy

by Stacy

Tips for cooling off

May 7, 2014 in Crabitat

Our beloved hermit crabs are ectothermic creatures, which means they depend on the environment to regulate their body temperature. This means maintaining their crabitat at proper temperature and humidity is literally a matter of life and death.

With warm summer temps comes the risk of a too hot crabitat, below are some tips to help cool down your crabbies on a blazing hot day.

First remember that hermit crabs are tropical creatures so they can handle brief temperature spikes and be okay. A prolonged heat wave will be too much for them to handle. If you cool your home by opening windows and using fans, you must keep a close watch on the temperature in the crabitat. If you have air conditioning and maintain a fairly consistent inside temperature, the tank temperature shouldn’t vary too much.

82F is the upper limit for crabitat temperature. Your tank should have a range of temperatures. Ideally with the coolest part of the tank being 72F and the warmest part around 80F. Be sure to check the substrate temperature and the air temperature. In the summer, a cooler substrate temperature is ok. That will allow your hermit crabs to burrow to cool off. The opposite is true in the winter.

These are temporary fixes for a spike in temperature and not ideal for maintaining a proper crabitat environment day to day.

Consider moving the crabitat to a cooler part of the house if an extended heat wave is expected. Pre chill some dechlorinated water so you have it on hand.

Try removing the lid and use a fan to quickly cycle hot air out. The fan will cause a drop in humidity but that will be okay. Overheating is a bigger danger. If you have your crabitat set up properly, the change in humidity will be brief and will not harm healthy hermit crabs. Consider a cold water misting after using the fan, use dechlorinated water.

Freeze some plastic bottles of water and pop one in the crabitat to cool it off. Replace as needed on a hot day. Freeze these now so you have them when you need them. Those blue lunch box freezer things can be used too, but not if they are leaking or are of a soft material the hermit crabs can puncture. If you use these I would not leave them unattended for too long.

Make sure their water pools are not hot. Cooler water can help them cool themselves.

If you have to use ice cubes to cool off the crabitat, place them in substrate and not in the water pools. Unless of course you were clever and froze some dechlorinated water. :)

Hermit crabs will hang out of their shell in an effort to cool themselves off. If you see this behavior, act fast before permanent damage occurs.

Leaking of brown liquid or bubbling/foaming at the mouth are signs of severe overheating and what is likely irreversible physical injury to your hermit crab.

Profile photo of Stacy

by Stacy

Can I Use A Light To Keep Them Warm?

February 3, 2014 in Crabitat

There has been a lot of false information when it comes to hermit crab care over the years. One of the biggest known factors of land hermit crab deaths is dehydration from the use of desk lamps with a common household bulb. Back in 1994 that is what I was advised to use by three different pet stores in three different states within Australia. Before under tank heaters and thermostats were made available to the public, one would leave the desk lamp on overnight to help keep the chill of dropping temperature at bay. Desk lamps have been proven unsuccessful at meeting the needs of land hermit crabs as a primary heat source, and have usually resulted in fatality, especially when coupled with wood shavings as a substrate.

As we know on a very hot day, all the humidity in the air escapes and we are left with hot, dry air. When you use the desk lamps with full spectrum light, you will find that hermit crabs will dig down or hide away to get away from the bright light. Since we are aiming for a warm, humid environment and active hermit crabs, it makes sense that the lamp will overheat the crabs and set them to hide.

If you use the Under Tank Heater as the primary heat source, you do not need the lamp as a heat source, but you may be still want to illuminate the tank overnight so that you can watch the activity in the food dish or stare wide-eyed during a seashell swap. The only light I recommend based on personal experience is a moonlight-simulating globe (or moon glow bulb) that is coated with rare earth black phosphors that simulate the glow of the moon. Perfect for our nocturnal hermit crabs who are much more relaxed eating, climbing and swapping shells beneath the gentle light, which gently illuminates your crabitat. You will be amazed how much more active they will be.

It is recommended that you use bulbs no higher than 40 watt, with 25W for a small crabitat.

Esu Combo Light

The Energy Savers Reptile 30″ Combo Light is a three lamp light fixture designed to accommodate one 24″, 20 watt fluorescent lamp and two incandescent lamps

 ESU BiLight

30″ Reptile Bi-Light

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
ITEM # RP434
UPC # 0 9631600434 4
Dimensions: 30.25″x4″x5.75″

The Bi-Light Reptile Hood Lighting Fixture features a double high-heat ceramic socket built to withstand the higher heat that is emitted from high-wattage incandescent lamps. The fixtures are designed to direct light and heat down into the habitat. The double socket with single switch and cord holds two incandescent lamps up to 150 watts each. Available in 20″ or 30″ lengths.

Esu NightLight bulb

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
ITEM # RP418
UPC # 0 9631600418 4

Dimensions: 1.5″x1.5″x5.5″

The Reptile Nightlight is an incandescent nocturnal black heat lamp. While casting a lunar glow, the heat radiating from the lamp allows the reptile to bask in its warmth.

ZooMed

ZooMed Economy Hood

Economy Reptile Strip

20″ 2 Incandescent/1 in-line switch
Item# EH-20

24″ 2 Incandescent1 in-line switch
Item# EH-24

30″ 3 Incandescent/2 in-line switch
Item# EH-30

36″ 3 Incandescent/2 in-line switch
Item# EH-36

48″ 4 Incandescent/2 in-line switch

Item# EH-48

1. High temperature porcelain sockets for up to 75 watt bulbs.
2. High temperature white reflective paint.
3. In-line switches can be used with timer.
4. Sizes: 20″, 24″, 30″, 36″, & 48″.

5. Heavy gauge welded steel construction.

Clamp Lamp

Porcelain Clamp Lamp

1. Custom ceramic base Clamp Lamp ideal for use with all types of reptile incandescent light sources or ceramic heat emitters.

2. Heat-resistant porcelain socket, handles up to a 150 watt spot or ceramic heat emitter.

3. Wire guard is safer than an aluminum reflector as it prevents unnecessary heat build up and possible hand burns.

4. Polarized plug for safety. Six foot power cord. Safety Clamp secures lamp to terrarium to prevent accidents (for extra safety, use the Repti Lamp Stand).

ZooMed Lamp Stand

Repti Lamp Stand

1. For use in suspending metal dome or wire basket lamp fixtures (Great for use with a Repti Clamp Lamp, Economy Clamp Lamp or Brooder Lamp).
2. Two easily adjustable sizes to fit most standard terrariums.
3. Suspends heat fixtures that would otherwise be difficult to secure or use.
4. Helps prevent accidental knocking over or tipping of heat fixtures.
5. Special clips keep power cords secure and out of the way.

Regular: Item# LF-20

Small Size: Item# LF-21

NightGlo  

Some bulbs are of the ‘Edison Screw’ type, and require a lamp such as ZooMed’s Porcelain ReptiClamp Lamp or a Reptile Hood/Strip fitted for edison screw bulbs. Both are used over the tank, with the glass between the light and hermit crabs. A 15 Watt bulb can be used for lighting purposes, however the ambient (air) temperature may rise 1-2 degrees. With higher wattages you may notice a problem with keeping the humidity within the 72-82% range. Many hermit crab owners have chosen to add a large basin of water to their tank, or have installed drip systems, timed misters or waterfalls to keep the humidity level from dropping.

It is important to keep a close eye on both the humidity and temperature within your hermit crab’s enclosure, and to provide an environment that will put your hermit crabs at ease as well as keep them happy and healthy. Investing in items such as under tank heaters, moon glow bulbs, hoods and possibly a thermostat or rheostat to regulate conditions and your hermit crabs will have a higher chance of survival when Summer leaves us and cooler days approach. Left without adequate heating and humidity would usually result in lowered activity, hibernation and perhaps fatality. While a desk lamp may seem an economical solution, I’m sure you will agree that the death of a loved hermit crab is too high a price to pay.

Profile photo of Stacy

by Stacy

Can I Use A Light To Keep Them Warm?

October 16, 2012 in General

Compiled by Vanessa and Marie (aka ladybug15057)

There has been a lot of false information when it comes to hermit crab care over the years. One of the biggest known factors of land hermit crab deaths is dehydration from the use of desk lamps with a common household bulb, coupled with wood shavings as substrate in a plastic ‘kritter keeper’ with vented lid. Before under tank heaters or thermostats were made available to the public, many hermit crab owners were advised by pet stores to leave the desk lamp on overnight to help keep the chill of dropping temperature at bay. Desk lamps have been proven unsuccessful at meeting the needs of land hermit crabs as a primary heat source, resulting in fatality, especially when coupled with wood shavings as a substrate in an enclosure where any humidity escapes through the vented lid.

If you use an Under Tank Heater which covers half of the dimensions of the base of your tank as the primary heat source, you may not need the lamp as a heat source. You may be still want to illuminate the tank overnight (with a moon glow bulb with a rare phosphorus coating) so that you can watch the activity in the food dish or stare wide-eyed during a seashell swap. The only light recommended for night viewing is a moonlight-simulating globe (or moon glow bulb)that is coated with rare earth black phosphors that simulate the glow of the moon. Perfect for our hermit crabs who are more relaxed eating, climbing and swapping shells beneath the gentle light, which gently illuminates your crabitat. You will be amazed how much more active they will be with the extra warmth. It is my personal choice to use bulbs no higher than 40 watt, with 25W for a small crabitat. Others have chosen higher wattages to warm their larger (100 and 120 Gallon tanks. It is important to take the size of your crabitat, substrate type and other factors before deciding upon your lighting needs. It is very important to monitor the substrate temperature as well as the humidity level of the crabitat.

Some bulbs are of the ‘Edison Screw’ type, and require a lamp such as ZooMed’s Porcelain ReptiClamp Lamp or a Reptile Hood/Strip fitted for edison screw bulbs. Both are used over the tank, with the glass between the light and hermit crabs. A 15 Watt bulb can be used for lighting purposes, however the ambient (air) temperature may rise 1-2 degrees. With higher wattages you may notice a problem with keeping the humidity within the 75-78% range. Many hermit crab owners have chosen to add a large basin of water to their tank, or have installed drip systems, timed misters, or waterfalls to keep the humidity level from dropping.

It is important to keep a close eye on both the humidity and temperature within your hermit crab’s enclosure, and to provide an environment that will put your hermit crabs at ease as well as keep them happy and healthy. Investing in items such as under tank heaters, moon glow bulbs, hoods and possibly thermostat or rheostat to regulate conditions and your hermit crabs will have a higher chance of survival when Summer leaves us and cooler days approach. Left without adequate heating and humidity would usually result in lowered activity. hibernation and perhaps fatality. While a desk lamp may seem an economical solution, I’m sure you will agree that the death of a loved hermit crab is too high a price to pay.

ESU

Reptile Bi Light

Reptile Bi Light-The Energy Savers Reptile 30″ Combo Light is a three lamp light fixture designed to accommodate one 24″, 20 watt fluorescent lamp and two incandescent lamps




Reptile Bi Light 24"

The Bi-Light 2 Reptile Hood Lighting Fixture features two single high-heat ceramic sockets on separate switches and separate power cords and accommodates two incandescent lamps up to 150 watts each. The lamps can be plugged into individual timers for both day and night cycling. Dimensions 24.75″x3.75″x5.75″




Reptile Bi Light 30"

Reptile Bi Light 30″ – The Bi-Light Reptile Hood Lighting Fixture features a double high-heat ceramic socket built to withstand the higher heat that is emitted from high-wattage incandescent lamps. The fixtures are designed to direct light and heat down into the habitat. The double socket with single switch and cord holds two incandescent lamps up to 150 watts each. Available in 20″ or 30″ lengths. Dimensions: 30.25″x4″x5.75″




Night Glo Incandescent Bulb 15W

Night Glo Incandescent Bulb 15W-Simulates natural moonlight Coated with rare earth black phosphors Will not alter natural day length or photo period Protects pets from night time temperature drop Great for nocturnal viewing Promotes normal digestion & activity.




Reptile Strip Light

Reptile Strip Light-Accepts 1″ (T8) or 1-1/2″ (T12) diameter fluorescent reptile bulbs. Pre-assembled light fixture with a Super-UV fluorescent lamp included. It’s easy to install and ideal for areas with limited space. Now you can have high-quality, ESU Reptile fluorescent lighting in a convenient, ready-to-use fixture. It’s compact, lightweight and easy to install. The Super UV lamp simulates natural daylight and produces the appropriate UVA and UVB rays for calcium absorption and bone growth in reptiles.




ZooMed
Porcelain Clamp Lamp

Porcelain Clamp Lamp-
1. Custom ceramic base Clamp Lamp ideal for use with all types of reptile incandescent light sources or ceramic heat emitters.

2. Heat-resistant porcelain socket, handles up to a 150 watt spot or ceramic heat emitter.


3. Wire guard is safer than an aluminum reflector as it prevents unnecessary heat build up and possible hand burns.

4. Polarized plug for safety. Six foot power cord. Safety Clamp secures lamp to terrarium to prevent accidents (for extra safety, use the Repti Lamp Stand).




ZooMed Lamp Stand

ZooMed Reptile Lamp Stand

1. For use in suspending metal dome or wire basket lamp fixtures (Great for use with a Repti Clamp Lamp, Economy Clamp Lamp or Brooder Lamp).

2. Two easily adjustable sizes to fit most standard terrariums.

3. Suspends heat fixtures that would otherwise be difficult to secure or use.

4. Helps prevent accidental knocking over or tipping of heat fixtures.

5. Special clips keep power cords secure and out of the way.




Note: As with heat from an under tank heater, it is highly recommended that a Thermostat is used.

Profile photo of Stacy

by Stacy

Methods for heating your crabitat

September 25, 2012 in Caresheets

Compilation of information by Vanessa Pike-Russell and Stacy Griffith


To keep your hermit crabs healthy and happy their environment should be kept in optimum temperature and humidity levels. If you are not able to keep the environment stable then your crabs will weaken and become stressed which will lead to death.

Sources of heating suitable for crabariums/crabitats are:

1. Under-tank heaters

There are many types of under-tank heaters used with reptiles but you need to make sure your crabs do not overheat. The UTH should cover approximately 1/2 of the tanks outside floor. The best kind are those that keep the temperature stable between 72 (cool side) and 80 degrees F (22-26.67oC) warmer side. Hermit crabs are cold blooded creatures and must have a warmish and cooler side to their substrate. If your temperature falls below 72oF on a frequent basis you need a reliable and safe under tank heater. Whatever type of under tank heater or other heating method you use, it is STRONGLY recommended that you buy a temperature control device such as a thermostat or rheostat.

Crab Island Heat Mat

Crab Island Heat Mat
The most widely used line of heat mats in the world. For use with plastic or 5 gallon glass hermit crab cages or tanks. Easily attaches to the cage bottom using ordinary household tape and can be removed as needed. Approximately 3 Watts. Operates on 120 V, 60 Hz household current. Not recommended for use in tanks larger than several (5) gallons in size. Made with UL listed components. Approximately 4″ x 5″ with a 7 foot long cable.
Not made for use in Australia.


Euro Rep Habitstat Heat Mat

Euro Rep Habistat Heat Mat
Heat Mats are available in multiple sizes.
Download PDF file
Can be used on plastic tanks (plastic tanks are not recommended for use as crabitat)
Eurorep Heatmat Diagram
Habistat heat mats are the traditional carbon impregnated glass cloth type heaters. Whilst some manufacturers have moved to the cheaper printed elements, EuroRep believe that their style of heaters are better and more reliable. EuroRep have been selling this type of heater for 15 Years now and genuinely believe it to be their best design. Habistat products are used in many countries worldwide.

Heat Mats produce ultra long wavelength infra red heat. This wavelength is invisible to the human eye and tends to furnishings in the cage rather than the air. This action of heating is very similar to the sun and it has the ability to heat anything that it strikes but with the air temperature remaining much lower. Reptiles absorb this at in a manner very similar to basking in a natural environment. Heat mats do get warm but provide a very gentle warmth which the animal can sit under or on top of. It should be noted that heat mats give a gentle background heat. If you are keeping animals that requires higher temperatures, then you may require additional supplemental heating. Many diurnal or day active species of lizard require basking spots of rather high localised heat. Additional heat sources should then be provided for these species. Heat mats are excellent primary heaters for most applications requiring night time heat


EuroRep Habistat Heat Strips


Heat Strips are manufactured in the same way as mats. They are made narrower and are generally used to heat small boxes and the cages used for housing juvenile snakes and some other species. The principles of use are the same as those for mats and the same precautions should be exercised. In small enclosures the heat buildup can be very quick. The temperature should be adequately monitored and controlled with a HabiStat thermostat.

Heat Strips are available in multiple sizes.

Download PDF Instruction manual

Heat Strips are manufactured in the same way as mats. They are made narrower and are generally used to heat small boxes and the cages used for housing juvenile snakes and some other species. The principles of use are the same as those for mats and the same precautions should be exercised. In small enclosures the heat build up can be very quick. The temperature should be adequately monitored and controlled with a HabiStat thermostat.


Hagen Exo Terra Under the Tank Heater

Exo Terra Heat Mat

Heat Pads are available in the following sizes:

  • 1-5 gallon – The only under tank heater made by ZooMed which is suitable for use with plastic tanks. (plastic tank not recommended for use as crabitat)
  • 10-20 gallon
  • 30-40 gallon
  • 50-60 gallon

Product Manual
Heaters range from 4 to 24 watts
Solid state nichrome heating element!
Permanently adheres to your terrarium, forming a solid bond for better heat transfer.
Comes complete with 8 page instruction booklet and rubber terrarium feet.
Note: Some hermit crab owners have found that the adhesive loses its strength and the UTH is no longer in contact with the tank. Check regularly for this.
A 240 V version has been made for UK/ Europe and Australia.

Zoo Med Under the Tank Heater

Exo Terra Repti Therm U.T.H.
The Repti Therm U.T.H. heater is designed to economically heat reptile, amphibian, small animal, and plant terrrariums.

  • Extremely economical to use! Heaters range from 4 to 24 watts and cost almost nothing to operate!
  • U.L./C.U.L. approved for safety (GS/TUV / CE in Europe.)
  • Solid state nichrome heating element! The Repti Therm U.T.H. heater uses a solid state Nichrome heating element which uses only 24 watts of electricity and costs only pennies a day to operate.
  • Permanently adheres to your terrarium, forming a solid bond for better heat transfer!
  • Comes complete with 8 page instruction booklet and rubber terrarium feet.
  • Quality! Quality! Quality!

Helpful Hints:

  • For Terrarium use only. Not for aquariums.
  • For indoor use only
  • Always use the enclosed rubber feet to slightly elevate your terrarium allowing excess bottom heat to escape and avoid damaging the powercord. (wooden 1 inch blocks or legos recommended)
  • Placing terrariums with an under tank heater on household furniture may cause furniture’s finish to discolor. ZooMed Labs Inc., does not guarantee against furniture finish discoloration. ZooMed recommends placing terrrariums on stands designed for use with terrariums.
  • For use on glass terrariums only. Do not use on wood, plastic, acrylic or any other type of terrarium except those made of glass. (Only exception is the Repti Therm RH-7 Mini Heater can be used on plastic terrariums).
  • One adhesive side “sticks” directly to your terrarium for optimum heat transfer. Optional mounting on bottom or side of your terrarium (runner feet enclosed for bottom mounting).
  • Can be used with a thermostat and/or in conjunction with an additional heat source for higher temperature species.
  • Full one year warranty.

It is important to regulate the temperature output of under tank heaters. Temperature control devices such as Thermostats and Rheostats are strongly recommended for this purpose. See the section below about Thermostats and Rheostats.

2. Lights

Lights come in a variety of shapes and sizes. Below are just the common styles to give you some ideas of what is available. Because hermit crabs require a regular cycle of day/night it makes sense to use overhead lights that emit heat. This fills two needs with one item. Reptile bulbs come in day glo and moon glo (with a rare black phosphorus coating) so that you can have warmth at night, which is necessary. The wattage of bulb needed depends on your tank size.

Clamp light

Zoo Med Clamp Lamp

  • Ceramic socket reptile clamp lamp
  • Reptile lamp holds light and heat-emitting incandescent bulbs
  • For use above screen-top terrariums or cages

Zoo MedLight or heat your terrarium easily with this custom ceramic socket clamp lamp. Designed for reptile incandescent light or heat bulbs. Includes an in-line on/off switch on cord for your convenience and a heavy-gauge black/white aluminum dome that glows in the dark. Clamp is rubber coated for better grip and protection of clamped surfaces. For use above screen-top terrariums or cages only. Do not use inside the terrarium. 6 ft. UL-Listed cord.
The 5-1/2″ Clamp Lamp is rated for bulbs up to 100 watts.
The 8-1/2″ Clamp Lamp is rated for bulbs up to 150 watts.

Make sure wattage of bulb or wattage of ceramic heat emitter is correctly rated for your size terrarium to avoid overheating terrarium.
Also available with inline dimmer.

You will need to switch bulbs from day glo to moon glo or purchase two lamps.

Multi fixture hoods – Available in a variety of lengths

Bi Light Fixture

Pack your reptile’s daytime and nighttime heating all under one hood with this handy light fixture. Reptile terrarium heating and lighting has never been easier. Two independently-controlled ceramic sockets can each hold an incandescent heat lamp up to 40 watts. Ideal for creating a timed lighting schedule. For larger reptile terrariums, just place multiple fixtures side-by-side. Not for use with spot style reptile lighting.
Zilla Bi Light Hood
The Bi-Light 2 Reptile Hood Lighting Fixture features two single high-heat ceramic sockets on separate switches and separate power cords and accommodates two incandescent bulbs.

Tri Light Fixture

ESU Tri Light

These are more difficult to find now.

Designed exclusively for terrariums, the Tri-Light fixtures feature high-heat porcelain sockets built to withstand the intense heat that is emitted from high-wattage incandescent lamps. A single socket and a double socket on separate switches and cords hold three incandescent lamps up to 150 watts each. The lamps can be plugged into individual timers for both day and night cycling. Available in 30″ size.(6″L x 31″W x 4″H)

Tri Light Combo Fixture

ESU Combo Light
A combination fluorescent and incandescent light fixture designed to maximize the benefits of both types of lamps.
This allows for the use of a full-spectrum, UV-emitting fluorescent lamp along with incandescent full-spectrum daylight/heat lamps and/or incandescent nocturnal/heat lamps. The fixture contains special heat-resistant ceramic sockets for the incandescent lamps and is designed to direct light and heat down into the terrarium. With the combo-light, hobbyists can create an ideal lighting environment for their terrariums.

Halogen Fluorescent Combo Light Fixture

Halogen Tri Light

  • Halogen heat and fluorescent light in a single fixture
  • Toggle controls allow accurate, independent direction of halogen bulbs
  • Features 24-hour timer for worry-free operation of daylight and heat

This combination fixture provides both the warmth and the heightened ultraviolet output pet reptiles need for maximum health. Works on screen tops for quick and easy setup. External toggle controls allow you to direct energy efficient halogen bulb without removing fixture while moveable halogen bulb socket allows the halogen’s heat and light output to be aimed anywhere in the terrarium. 24-hour mechanical timer makes day/night cycles easy to manage. Features sleek, designer black aluminum housing, 6 ft cord, separate power switches for easy day/night cycling, white powder-coated reflector for maximum light and heat efficiency, easy bulb access and installation.

For use with T-5 fluorescent bulbs and halogen bulbs (bulbs not included). Bulbs are ideal for these desert-dwelling reptiles: African Fat-Tailed Gecko, Bearded Dragons, Blue-Tongue Skinks, Emerald Swifts, Leopard Geckos, Nile Monitors, Red-Footed Tortoises, Savannah Monitors, Schneider’s Skinks, Tegus, and Uromastyx.

Reptile hood “The Slider”

The Slider Reptile Hood

  • Amazingly easy to use
  • Heat, light, reflectors, and more in a single terrarium hood
  • Requires less wattage for heating and enables optimal lighting

Discover the ultimate in reptile lighting fixtures. Tthis distinctive terrarium hood offers extreme convenience with the innovative features you desire. Vertical, high-temperature porcelain sockets let you mount 2-3 heat emitters or spot bulbs (up to 150 watts each) plus one T-8 or T-12 fluorescent bulb (bulbs not included). Adjustable mounting brackets allow quick, easy access and maintenance. Simply slide open, or back into a secure “No-Lift” closed position. Independent switches and two power cords let you use individual timers to suit your unique heating and lighting needs. Aluminum reflector enables optimal lighting. Also includes removable screen for your pet’s protection, an internal 3-prong receptacle for an in-tank electrical supply, air hose port, internally mounted ballast, and grounded frame. Heavy-gauge welded steel construction in elegant black alligator powdercoat finish. Fits most 12″ wide tanks in 24″, 30″, 36″, and 48″ lengths.

    Hood  	Incandescent  	Fluorescent
    24" 	Holds 2 bulbs 	1- 18" bulb
    30" 	Holds 2 bulbs 	1- 24" bulb
    36" 	Holds 3 bulbs 	1- 24" bulb
    48" 	Holds 3 bulbs 	1, 36" bulb

3. Heat Cable

Soil Heating Cables

Greenhouse Cable
Greenhouse cable can be a heating alternative for people who are unable or uncomfortable with other sources of heat. Using GHC, however, requires some additional precautions to protect the crabs and yourself. Only use enough cable to cover 2/3 of your tank floor. This allows your crabs to seek out temperature zones for resting and molting underground. Place cable in tank and secure with small strips of heat resistant tape.

Purchase a reptile mat to lay over the cable. This works best if the reptile mat is the same size of your tank floor. Cut a small hole in the corner of your reptile mat and thread the power cord through the hole.

The cord should then be threaded through a piece of PVC pipe that has been cut to fit the height of your tank.
The thermostat should be placed under the reptile mat as well. Crabs can and will cut through rubber and other types of cable insulation. Every part of it must be protected from the crabs.

Once this setup is in place, lay your substrate out on top of the reptile mat and continue with your setup as you normally would.
Check substrate frequently over the next few weeks to confirm that your reptile mat is working correctly

These heating cables speed seedling germination and growth with gentle bottom heat allowing you to get a head start on the growing season. They have a built-in thermostat that automatically activates the heating element if the soil temperature drops below 70 F which is the optimal root zone temperature for most seedlings and starts. Each heating cable includes installation instructions and helpful tips. 110/120 volt electricity required.

Zoo Med Reptile Heat Cable

Zoo Med Repti Heat Cable

Available in these sizes

    • 5-10 gallon
    • 10-20 gallon
    • 30-40 gallon
    • 50-100 gallon
    • Breeder

RHC-15to100 Instuction Manual
RHC 150 Instruction Manual

Thermostats and Rheostats

Should I use a Rheostat (dimmer) or a Thermostat?

Zoo Med Repti Temp 500R

Zoo Med Thermostat 500R
Features include a 6 foot remote sensor probe, a dual port plug receptacle to control multiple heating devices, and adhesive pads for mounting. Excellent for use with Zoo Med’s Ceramic Heat Emitter and the Repti Therm Under Tank Heater. Safety cover prevents accidental bumping of the temperature control dial! When used in conjunction with a timer, natural conditions are replicated by providing the proper photoperiod for your reptile, along with a beneficial nighttime temperature drop (consult a good book on your species to determine its specific temperature requirements). Range is from approximately 70F to 110F (21C to 43C).

ESU Reptile Thermostat

ESU Reptile Thermostat
Use in conjunction with a basking bulb or other heating device (sold separately) to maintain the correct temperature in your reptile’s environment. Set the ESU Reptile Electronic Temperature Controller to the correct temperature for your reptile, and when the temperature dips below that, it will turn on the attached basking bulb, under tank heater or other heating device (all sold separately) until the correct temperature is achieved. Helps to ensure your reptile’s habitat does not get too cold. Not for use with heating devices exceeding 500 watts; automatically shuts off at 110 degrees Fahrenheit for safety.

Zoo Med Rheostat

Zoo Med Rheostat

  • Plug in up to two reptile heating devices to manually adjust their temperature
  • Excellent for non-thermostatically controlled reptile heating devices, such as heat mats, overhead incandescent heat bulbs, and more
  • Use to turn heaters up in winter or down in summer depending on your room temperature

For precise, fingertip control of ceramic heat emitters, heat pads or undertank heaters, heat lamps, or other reptile heating devices. Has a standard plug-in and a two-port outlet for use of up to 2 devices. 150W unit uses dial adjustment and will control up to 150 total watts of heating devices.

With a turn of the knob, you can adjust the temperature of most heating devices! Plug in up to two compatible heat sources with a combined wattage of up to 150 watts! Turn your heaters down or back up depending on the ambient room temperature.

Additional Information:
Combined wattage not to exceed 150 watts.

Great for use with Zoo Med’s:

Repticare Rock Heaters
Ceramic Heat Emitters
ReptiTherm U.T.H.
Repti Basking Spot Lamps

HabiStat Temperature Thermostat-UK

HabiStat Temperature Thermostat
The Temperature Thermostat is an on / off switching device, that can be used with a variety of heaters. It has an accurate dial calibrated in both Farenheit and Celcius. Ideal for controlling heat mats, and other low powered heaters up a maximum load of 300 watts.

Thermostats are a MUST in any enclosure for Exotic Pets. They control the temperature ensuring this doesn’t go to low or high which could cause illness in your pet. The Habistat range has an external turn able knob to make this easier to adjust.
To help you select the correct thermostat for your enclosure, use the below as a general guideline:
Mat Stat 100 – Heat Mats ONLY
Temp Stat 300 – to use with heat mats and non emitting light source
Dimming Thermostat – to use with any heat/light source
Pulse Thermostat – to be used with non emitting light source
Twin Channel Thermostat – to use with non emitting light source

ChatClick here to chat!+
%d bloggers like this: